Lasting-machine.



E. 1. LA UHAPELLE.

LASTING MACHINE.

APPLIOATION FILED AUG.21,1912.

Patented Jan. 27, 1914.

2 SHEETS-SHEET l.

K725872302; LMJ? x2 '5 E. 1. LA GHAPELLE.

v LASTING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED AUG. 21, 1912.

2 sums-sum z.

Patented Jan. 27., 1914.

witnesses:

EUCLID I. LA CHAPELLE, F BEVERLY, MASSACHUSETTS.

LASTIN G- MACHINE.

Specification of Letters Patent.

. Patented J an. 27, 1914.

Application filed August 21, 1912. Serial No. 716,225.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, EUCLID L La Cine reruns, of Beverly, in the countyof Essex and State of Massacluisetts, have invented certain new anduseful lmprove1uents 1n Lastingdslachines, of which the following is aspecification.

This invention relates-to lasting machines and more particularly to suchmachines having a plurality of lasting grippers and fats tellinginserting devices.

This invention is illustrated in the drawings as applied to the UnitedStates patent to Ronald Mcl eely, No. (363,777, dated Dec. 11, 1900.This machine is selected as a type of the lasting machines to which thisinvention may be applied and it is to be understood that the inventionmay equally well be applied to various other lasting machines.

It is well known to those skilled in the art of making shoes, that themost satisfacttu'y shoe is obtained by securing the upper to the solewith the tip-seam diagonally disposed to the longitudinal median line ofthe shoe. A machine for lasting shoes in this manner is shown in thepatent to Arthur Bates, bio. l.UUtJ,-l;5U, dated October 2 t, lllll.

One object of the present invention is to provide new and improved meansfor securing the above described diagonal position of the tipseam andsetting the upper to the wood of the last. This feature is carried intoell'ect by ctmstructing the grippers which engage the marginal portionof the upper near each end of the tip-seam so that the grippers at oneend of the seam are stopped and held in a predetermincd positionlengthwise ot' the last at one side while the seam is set diagonally ofthe last by the movement of the grippers. In some cases I may impart theforedraw movement: to each of the grippers so as to strainthe uppertoward the toe of the last as is usual. In such a case 1 would set thestopping means prior to the toredraw movement to positively stop thegrippers at one side or" the last to set the tip-seam as has beendescribed. The devices for positively stopping; the toredraw movement ofthe grip iers are adjustable so that the degree at the angle of thetip-seam and the point at which the s am is held toward the toe of thelast may be varied according to the different styles of lasts. One endof the tip-seam being thus held at a predetermined position at one ofthe last, brings about. uniformity in length of tip at that side of thelast, provided that the toe of the last is set at each operation againstthe toe-end gripper, by the operator. t

In lasting a shoe by hand, some workmen first pull the toe-end of thevamp or of the tip, as the case may be, and then move the ramp and itsseams laterally of the last, toward the big toe-side, and they thensecure the toe-end of the upper to the last. hey next pull the upper atthe little toe side of the last at sutlieient distance to allow for thelasting tacks to be inserted properly. They then fasten the vamp to thelast, Or to the sole 0n the last, as the case maybe, They next strainfrom the big toe side of the last. upwardly and forwardly and finallyapply fastenings to that side of thelast. It has been found that it isproductive of better results and easier for the worlnnan to strain theupper mostly from the big toe side of the last as above explained.

The general object of this invention is to provide a lasting machineproducing uniformly lasted shoes, whether or not one. side of the upperhas been pulled more than the other side. it is also an object of thisinvcntion to provide means in a lasting maehine for lasting a shoe in amanner 1'1'es1) )hding to the hand operation above explained. To theaceoiuplishineni; of this object a fut ther feature of the inn-unioncomprises means for causing the grippers on one side of the uppe.preferably the outside or little toe side, to pull or hold withoutpulling the upper toward the bottom of the last so as to provide thedesired margin of iro n'r to be secured to the last. The linalstrausingg and setting of the upper is done by the grippeiu: t on the1ns1de, or big toe side of the laat. An adjustable stop is provided foreach gripper to limit the distance through which it moves to pull theupper in readiness to be fastened to the last. Ordimzrily the stopscontrolling the grippers at the l'iig toe side at the last are ren h=redinoperative so that the upper is strained at that side of the lastagainst the usual spring tension of the grippers. In some instanceshowever, it is desirable that the stops on both sides of the last shallbe operated so that there will be a positive limit to the movement ofthe grip persat each side of the last. Uniformity in length of tip willthen result as both ends f the tip-seam are thus set at predeterminedpositions lengthwise oi the inst.

In some cases I per actuating levers so that the grippers do not reachthe predetermined limit of their movement at a single Operation of themachine. The hand levers controlling the grippers shown inthe'aforementioned Mc- Feely patent are then manually operated tocomplete the movement of the grippers to their positive stopping point.It is desirable that the final pulling movement of the upper shall beslow on some styles of lasts in order to avoid tearing the vamp or thelining. I

The updraw straining movement of the grippers is of greater importancethan the foredraw movement and in. some cases,

the foredraw movement may be dispensed.

with, as for instance, when an upper has been pulled lengthwise prioroveroperation proper.

The two features of this invention hereinbefore described may be howeververy conveniently combined as is illustrated in the drawings. Thesefeatures in their simplest form would be exemplified by a single pair ofgrippers at or near each end of the tip-seam of an upper on a last. Thegrippers at the little toe side of the last having a limited movementand the grippers at the big toe side having a movement which may or maynot have a positive limit to set the upper to the lines of the last anda foredraw movement to move the tip-seam about an airis passingsubstantially through the other grippers that have already been moved toa predetermined position. The two grippers described may be sufficient,in some cases, to properly last a shoe.

The strain required to properly last an upper as contemplated by thisinvention is considerably less than that required by the machines atpresent in use. Another advantage in the manner of operation of thisinvention is apparent when used on welt shoes. In making welt shoes itis customary to secure an insole to thelast'with the pe-. riphery of thebig toe side of the forepart of the sole coincident with thecorresponding part of the last, thus allowing any surplus width of thesole to. project over the bottom of the last at the little toe side. Inthe pulling over machines heretofore employed the upper on each side ofthe last has been drawn upwardly. A projecting edge of the insole wouldthen be bent away from the bottom of the last by the friction of thevamp against the sole edge during the updraw movement of the grippers.At the welt sewing operation the needle would then be liable to engagethe edge of the insole,

, so that the stitches would, in some instances,

pass through the edge of the insole after passing through the betweensubstance. In the present invention, the final strain of the upper ispreferably at the big toe side of set the tension of the grip.

to the pulling ping means the last where there is no projecting insoleedge. Thus the edge of the insole at the little toe side is bent by thefriction of the vamp, toward the last and against its side out of thepath of the needle during the well: sewing operation. This is madepossible by the grippers at the little toe side of the last yieldingunder the influence of the grippers at the big toe side of the last atthe end of their straining movement on the vamp. This advantage may alsobe of value in other kinds of shoes wherein the edge of the soleprojects over the edge of the last at one side.

As has this invention is to secure uniformity in lasting, and for thisreason, positive stopping means are always preferable whenever thenature of the work will vantage, in some cases, to pull an upper toindefinite points at both sides of the last and to have positivestopping the grippers at one side of the last from movement toward thelast under the influence of the grippers having greater pulling power atthe other side of the last.

A. novel and important feature of this invention resides in theprovision of means to render the stopping means operative or inoperativeas may be desired. The stopshown in the drawings are the These mayberendered inoperthe hooks away from the actuating levers 6 or hooks 26.ative by turning path or the gripper 7 which will allOW the grippers atboth sides of the last to pull the upper to an indefinite point. Afterthe gripper actuating lever at one side of the last has passed the hook26 while it is in operative position, the hook may be tu'rned'so as tolie beneath the lever and thereby prevent it from being drawn toward thelast by the pull of the grippers at the opposite side of the lasttransmitted through the upper. t hook should be turned under the leverhaving the lesser pulling power. In this manner, a predeterminedstopping point is provided to limit the movement of the grippers towardthe last after the upper has been pulled.

In some cases it may be desirable to employ the hooks 26 to hold thegrippers at a predetermined distance from the last without exerting anypull on the upper by the grippers so held. In this instance, theoperator would move the/grippers at one side of the therefrom by movingthe gripper actuating levers 6 or '4' as is described in theaforementioned patent to movement of the levers causes the grippers toclose automatically on the upper. After the operator has moved thegrippersthrough a suthcient distance to cause them. to engage the upper,the hook or hooks at that side of the last can be turned, as

means-t0 hold McFeely. The upward has open described,

permit. It is of adis apparent that the last to a predetermined distanceso as to hold the grippers a positive distance away from the last atthat side.

Another novel and important feature of this invention relates to meansfor supporting the last which may be laterally inclined to the plane ofthe upper engaging devices, which as herein described, are the grippers.

I provide supports at each side of the last with means for independentadjustment toward and from the last. The supports may be actuated at anytime. In some cases, the supports are preferably actuated after theupper has been-strained so as to alternately-move the sides of the lastin the upper to secure a better adjustment of the upper to the lines ofthe last. These adjustments of the supports are necessary only inspecial cases where Vamps or vamp linings do not properly fit the last.I have also found it desirable to provide means for adjusting thegrippers toward and from the last and for holding them in adjusted positions as will be hereinafter set forth.

lVhen a lasting machine includes means for supporting the last againstlengthwise movement, the toe gripper may be dispensed with. Supportingmeans of this character are set forth in a United States Patent No.950,179, dated Feb. 22, 1910, issued to the present applicant. Theadvantages of these features and such others as may hereinafter appearwill be apparent to'one skilled in the art from the followingdescriptionand accompanying drawings, in which z- Figure l is a side elevation ofthe lasting machine shown in the United States patent to Ronald F.McFeely, No. 663,777, dated Dec. 11, 1900, having the preferred form ofthe present invention embodied therein; Fig. 2 is a side elevation ofthe opposite side of the machine to that shown in Fig. 1; Fig. 3 is adetail showing the means for stopping the straining movement of thegrippers; Fig. 4 is a detail in section of the means for guiding the toegrippers and for permitting a lateral movement. thereof; Fig.-

5 1s a sectional detail showing the means for adjusting the support ofthe side grippers to be hereinafter explained; Fig. 6 is a perspectiveof a shoe which has been lasted in accordance with the preferred form ofthe present invention; Fig. 7 is-abottom view of the last supportingmeans; and Fig. 8 is a sectional detail showing particularly the meansfor adjusting the last supporting means. i

The gerieral construction and operation of the machine illustrated inthe drawings may be identiqil with the construction shown in the patentto McFeely. A toe gripper 1 is carried by a support 2 (Fig. 4) andadapted to be operated in the usual manner. Side grippers 3 and 4 arecarried by guides 5 and actuated to pull the upper through suitableconnections to levers (Sand 7. These levers are actuated to move theside grippers from an eccentric cam 8 which is constructed to move thelevers through springs 9 and 10 at each side of the machine, as is setforth in the patent hereinbefore referred to.

As described in the patent the springs 9 and 10-may be adjusted to varytheir tension by means of thumb nuts 9 and 10. In the use of myinvention I adjust one of the springs by means of its nut to preferablygive a greater strain on one side of the shoe than upon the other. It isusual for the operative to adjust the springs so as to produce equalstrains on each side of the vamp. In the general use of my invention, Ifind it desirable to have the greater spring tension on the gripper atthe big toe side of the last for welt and turn shoes, and at the littletoe side of the last for McKay shoes. A greater strain is also securedupon the upper on one side of the shoe than upon the other by anappropriate adjustment of the last supporting devices hereinbeforementioned. These devices engage the last near the sides. A third foot 13is provided to engage the forepart of the last near the toe. In order toproduce a greater strain upon one side .of the upper than upon theother, the feet 11 and 12 are independently adjustable so as to hold oneside of the last lower 9 than the other. The feet 11 and 12 are both 0mounted in the same manner, so that but one of these need be described.Referring to Fig. 8 the foot 11 is pivoted on one end of the lever 14which is in turn pivoted at 15 on a plate 16. The foot 11 may beadjustetL to hold the bottom of the last nearer to or farther from thegrippers by moving the lever 14.

A lock is provided to secure the lever in its adjusted position. Thelock may consist of a latch 17 pivoted on the lever 14 and having oneend constructed to engage notches 18 in a segment 19 which is fixed uponthe plate 16.

The toe engaging foot 13 is carried on the end of an arm 20 which hasthe usual adjustments well known to those skilled in the art. It is atpresent the custom to provide a-rigid toe engaging foot. In the pres entinvention it is desirable that the foot shall be capable of a turningmovement so that it may retain its work engaging surface at all timesparallel to the bottom of the last. To this end, the foot 13 is freelypivoted on a stud 21 so that it is capable of rocking in accordance withthe angular position of the last.

The feature of the invention, above described will secure desirablercsults in the lasting of uppers that do not properly fit the last, ashcrcinbcfore stated. The quality of the work is greatly improved in somecases by the use of certain adjusting and pout-rolling devices for thegrippers. In

' illustrated in the 'at the same time it skilled hand lasters take upsome some instances grippers shall be adjusted the work and it is alsodesirable that the grippers at each side of the last shall be capable ofindependent adjustment. 1 secured this adjustment by lengthening theconnection between the grippers 3 an with their actuating levers 6 and7. As drawings the connection threaded studs 23 carried and studs 22secured consists-of screw by the levers 6 and 7 to the'gripper bars.Each pair of studs is connected by a turn buckle. It is apparent thatthe rotation of the turnbuckle will move the grippers toward or from thework. In order that the gripping action of the pincers of the sidegrippers 3 and a may occur at the proper time, mechanism is pro videdfor adjusting the point of support of the side grippers in accordancewith the adjustments'of the turn-buckle 24. This is illustrated in Fig.5, which also shows a section through the point of support of one of thegrippers. The stud 22 is mounted to slide in a collar 35. 'The positionof the collar 35 determines the time at which the pincers will open orclose. The roller is provided with ears 36 which are .engaged above andbelow by set screws 37 and 38. A plurality of these screws may beprovided. when necessary, to form a path for the collar. It is apparentthat the screws on one side of the cars 36 may be loosened and thescrews on the other side tightened so as'to cause the grippers to beactuated at the same time on both sides of the last. It will benecessary to readjust the collar 35 whenever one of the turn-buckles 24is adjusted, in order that the timing of the grippers may besimultaneous. This feature is most desirable for shoe uppers that arevery small for the last.

It has beenv found desirable to pull the upper toward the toe, at thesides of the last, is drawn over the last. Machines have been built inwhich the upper was pulled toward the toe during the lasting operation,but these machines have not been capable of pulling over the upper aswell as a skilled hand operator. T he reason for this is that there ismore slack material at the shank of the big toe side of the shoe thanthere is at the other side. The most of this fullness by drawing theside of the tip or the vamp more toward the toe at the big toe side ofthe last than what they do at the other side. This not only gives abetter lasted shoe, but improves the appearance of the shoe by givingthe tip-seam a slight slant toward the toe at the big toe side of theshoe. An important feature of this invention comprises means foraccomplishing this result in a better manner than hereto fore a cco m plished it is desirable that the side toward or fromv side of the lastpossess It is old to'provide cams indicated at 25 to draw theupper'toward the toe on each side of the last. In the machine of thepresent invention I contemplate a provision of means for positivelystopping at predee i termined points the pulling movements, toward thetoe and toward the bottom of the last. This is preferably accomplishedby providing means for adjusting the stopping means prior to the pullingmovement upon the upper at a predetermined ,point, for stopping themovement 'of. one of the lovers 6 or 7. Two hooks 26 are secured bytheir screw threaded shanks in a fixed portion at 27 of the machineframe. The hooks are provided with knurled heads 28 by which a they maybe adjusted in their supports 2? and also to provide means-for turningone of the hooks away from its cotiperating gripper actuating lever sothat the lever may move freely past the hook, as is shown onthe right ofFig. 3. In this figure the upward movement of the lever (B will bestopped while the other lever continues to the full limit of its motion.The point at which the motion of the lever is stopped may be varied byturning the hookin the support 27 and then locking it in its ad" justedposition by a set screw 29. As shown in the drawings, the lei-er at thelittle toe is stopped, while the lever at the other side passes the hookunail ected.

The cams 25 controlling the grippers at the sides of the last, as shownin the drawings, have two distinct motions or paths. 106 The first cammotion is straight upwardly. The second motion is upwardly andforwardly. I preferably adjust-the stopping means at the little toe sideof the last to stop the grippers at that side of the last, before thestart of the second motion, for imparting a foredraw movement to thegrippers,

When the upward movement of one of the grippers is stopped the foredrawis of course also stopped, while the movement toward the 1m toe ontheother side continues. It is also evident from the foregoingdescription that the updraw movement of the grippers, at one side of thelast, will be longer than the other and will-have greater strainingpower. In the operation of this machine I prefer to have the excesslength of the pull and strain at the big toe side of the last, so as tomove strain, and set the upper and its seems more toward that side ofthe last, than toward the other side. r '5 V The toe grippers with thetip should move slightly sidcwise of the last under the indie ence ofthe side grippers, at one side of the last. It is desirable that the toegripper 1 shall be capable of a slight lateral movement in order that itmay not retard the action of the side grippers, or exert torsionalstrain on the vamp. To this end the casing 80 is provided at its upperend with a collar 31 13p routines wiitiou d 5.; in relatively iargcholc, 3:4 in the suoport 2 in which it 13 normally cenll; vo

ilimgcrs 33. The 'ultahie pocluets 1n pressed toward onc It is obviousthat both siccs of the vamp coouai there will ha no tendency ppcr tomove toward oncside o hcr. out; when the pull on one side i the vauuiand tip excccds the puli on the othcr side there will he a strain on thetoe gr ppers toward the side having thc greater null With a toe gripperconstructciil as has 15 hos-u (lost-filled, tho pull on tho tip, orupper at the side of the last will produce a slight latcral movement ofthe too grippers without interfering with tho continued strain of thoside of last grippc s.

Fig. l; shows an orijhrrirf; :ppsr which has hccn strained and set; overlast a and at tachcd to a sole 11 by my improved machino. The tipseam atthe point a has been drawn toward the toe more than the ip'seanl at thopoint I). This figure also snows a greater portion of the vamp strainedand set over on the bottom of the last at the big toe side part of thelast than on the other side. Having described the preferred embodimentof my invention. What i claim as ncw and desire to secure by Let 5Patent isz-- l. A lasting machine, having, in mmoina- "on. means forstraining an upper over a at the sides and at the toe-end, means formoppingthe straining movcmcut at a predel ocrmit a grater strainingmovement at other sidc of the last and. means to allow ining means ic ofthe last. n, ombina a a last. ing the pull points, i-tans :t'or

tno'vcuicnt tor opening hings to on after said proan up inst andautomoving the 'hc straining having. in combinaninz or. upper ov iustingthe from the upper: means Unit mcans to a nod point at. one/side of thelast. means ,iulermirtcntly into the upper. and

Cli

cd positions and moans for limiting the straining movcnzcnt of thestraining means.

5. A lasting machine having, in'combinalion. grippers for pulling anupper on a last. actuating means to impart a reciprocating movement totho grippers, and stops adjacent thc path of movement of the grip: pmactuating means constructed to he positioned with relation to saidactuating means n the path of n'iovement of the actuating rncans tolimit the movement of said means toward the last and constructed to beposi- Iioncd rvlative to the actuating, means so as to limit thomovement of said means away from the last.

6. A. lasting machine having, in comhination. grippers for pulling anupper at the sides of a last. moans adapted to hold the side of the lastat a predefrom the last after tho upper has hc-cn cugag'cd by thegrippers, and means for pulling the upper by tho grippers at the otherside of the last against the side thus hold. said holding means beingcapable of assuming an inoperative position during, the movement of thegrippers away from the last and an opc'ativc position during themovement of the grippers tovard the last.

7. A lasting machine having. in combination, grippers actuating devicesto move tlu grippers toward and from the last, stops 3. i lastingmachinc having, in combinasidcs ot' a last through unequal distances,moans adapted to he positioned to hold the pulling means having thelesser pulling movcmont against thcv strain of thc pulling mains havingtho greater pulling movement. and means adapted to lock said holdingmeans as positioned by the operator.

9. A lasting machine havingiu comhination. mains for pulling an upper atoppositc sitlcs of a last with unequal strain, u'pins uaiaplcd to permittho operator to more the pulling moans away from the last. and un onsadapted to hopositioncd to hold tho pulllu power against, the strain ofthe pulling means having the greater straining power.

10. it lasting machine. having. in combination. grippers adaptcd toengage an uppcr on a last. means, undcr control of the operator. wherebythe last may ho means whereby the said means, under control of theoperator, may he held in adjusted position after tha movcmcnhof the lastinto the nppcr,

1011, means for pulling on upper at opposite moved means having a lesserstraining 0 nation, grippers adapted 11. A lasting machine, having, inoomhitional means, under control of the operator,

whereby the,last may be moved into the upper after the automaticactuation of the means to move the last into the upper.

12. A. lasting machine, having, in combito be positioned at oppositesides of a last to engage an upper on the last, means, under control ofthe op- 'ipemee emtor whereby the last may ,be moved at one si ie of theupper, and means, under control of the operator, whereby the lastmay 15be held as finally positioned into the upper before the application oftestenings to hold the upper in lasted condition.

In testimony whereof l have afiixed my signature, in presence 0 twoWitnesses.

EUGLlD 1. LA CHARELLE. Witnesses A. C. CONNOLLY, R. F. HATCH.

